Themed routes
Walled towns above the sea, clear-water coves, cliff-top paths, a marine reserve and the easternmost cape of the Iberian Peninsula: these motorhome routes follow the coast of Catalonia into southern France. Here is what to see and how to avoid the crowds.
Waking up near the sea and reaching the cove before anyone else is one of the great joys of motorhome travel. The Costa Brava starts an hour from our base next to Granollers, without crossing Barcelona, and the French coast is only a little further. The outdoor shower on the Segimon Rental Sunlight V66 is perfect for rinsing off the salt, and you can add a paddleboard as an extra.
May, June, September and early October are the best months: pleasant water, lovely light and far fewer people. In July and August many coastal towns restrict motorhome parking and some beach car parks have height barriers, so park further up and walk or cycle down. Never camp on the beach, respect the dunes and seagrass meadows, and empty tanks only at authorised points. For summer trips, book campsites well ahead.
The only surviving walled medieval town on the Catalan coast crowns a headland above the beach, with towers and cobbled lanes. Climb to the lighthouse at sunset. The town gets very busy in summer: park at the entrance and walk in.
See route: Costa Brava
Arched fishermen's houses, boats pulled up on the sand and the July habaneras sea-shanty concert. From here, the camí de ronda coastal path leads on foot to Llafranc and the Sant Sebastià lighthouse, past coves and viewpoints.
See route: Catalonia in 7 days
Aiguablava, Sa Tuna, Sa Riera and Fornells are clear-water coves set among pines and rock. Access roads are narrow and parking is very limited in summer: leave the motorhome in Begur and go down on foot, by bike or by public transport.
See route: Costa Brava
Off L'Estartit, this small archipelago is one of the best-known marine reserves in the Mediterranean. With luck, snorkelling or diving, you will see groupers, shoals of fish and seagrass meadows. Glass-bottom boats are an option if you prefer to stay dry.
See route: Aiguamolls & Empordà
White houses around a bay and, next door, the easternmost point of the Iberian Peninsula, with a lighthouse and rocks shaped by the tramontana wind that inspired Dalí. In summer, vehicle access to the lighthouse is often regulated, so check first.
See route: Dalí route
The church bell tower by the sea, the royal castle and the little harbour captivated Matisse and Derain, who painted here in 1905 and gave birth to Fauvism. Park on the outskirts and explore the Côte Vermeille along the coastal path.
See route: South of France
It is not a good idea: wild camping is generally not allowed in Catalonia and many coastal towns ban overnight motorhome parking near the beach. Stay on campsites or authorised areas, and book ahead in summer.
May, June and September combine good weather, pleasant water and fewer crowds. July and August are very busy; at that time of year the minimum rental is seven days, which gives you room to mix coast and inland.
The Medes Islands off L'Estartit and the coves of Cap de Creus are among the best spots, along with the Begur coves such as Aiguablava. Wear water shoes, do not touch wildlife or seagrass, and respect buoyed swimming zones.
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