Aragonese Pyrenees by motorhome: the Benasque valley and Aneto

The Benasque valley, in the Ribagorza area of Aragon, is ringed by the highest mountains in the Pyrenees: the Aneto, at 3,404 m, and the Posets, the second highest in the range. Much of the valley lies within the Posets-Maladeta Natural Park, with mountain lakes, waterfalls and forests you reach on foot from the road. On the way you pass Roda de Isábena, a tiny village with its own cathedral, and the main square of Graus.

The route is a five-day rental, so five nights: you collect the motorhome on the afternoon of day 1 and return it on the morning of day 6. The best time is June to September, with autumn colours in early October. In June, September and October (mid season) the minimum rental is 4 days; in July and August it is 7, which leaves time for more walks or other valleys.

Route plan

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1 · Pick-up and a short leg to Lleida

You collect the motorhome between 16:00 and 19:00 in Les Franqueses del Vallès and, after the handover, head west on the AP-7 and A-2. In just under two hours of dual carriageway you reach the Lleida area: a stage with no bends, ideal for getting used to the V66 and keeping the next day free for the Ribagorza. Spend the night at a campsite or an authorised motorhome area nearby.

Day 2 · Benabarre, Roda de Isábena, the Ventamillo gorge and Benasque

The N-230 heads north to Benabarre, the old capital of the Ribagorza, with its castle above the town. On the way to Graus, turn up the Isábena valley to Roda, a walled village with very few residents and a Romanesque cathedral with a crypt and cloister (guided visits at set times: check them). Park at the entrance and walk up. Then, via Graus and the A-139, follow the Ésera upstream: the Congosto de Ventamillo is a narrow gorge where the rock overhangs the road in places. It is perfectly passable, just take it slowly. Benasque waits at the head of the valley.

Day 3 · Llanos del Hospital, La Besurta and the Forau d'Aiguallut

Start early. About 13 km of road climb the Ésera to the Llanos del Hospital, next to the old mountain hospice, now a hotel. In summer private vehicles cannot drive on to La Besurta: you park lower down and ride the shuttle bus (check dates, times and stops in Benasque). From La Besurta, an easy path leads in just under an hour to the Plan d'Aiguallut and its waterfall, and to the Forau, a sinkhole where the stream vanishes into the rock and resurfaces in the Val d'Aran, on the Atlantic side. Facing you, the Maladeta massif and the Aneto.

Day 4 · Benasque, Anciles and Cerler

An easy day. Stroll around Benasque, with its stone mansions and slate roofs, and follow a short, flat path to Anciles, a well-preserved hamlet of grand houses. In the afternoon drive up to Cerler, at 1,540 m the highest village in the Aragonese Pyrenees and the base of the ski resort, with views over the whole valley. If you are fit and experienced, swap this for the climb to the Cregüeña lakes or the Batisielles lakes: both are long, demanding days, so ask at the tourist office first.

Day 5 · Graus, Alquézar (optional) and Lleida

Retrace the Ésera and the gorge down to Graus, whose arcaded Plaza Mayor with painted façades deserves a stop. If you want more, Alquézar is about three quarters of an hour away via Barbastro: a medieval village perched above the Vero canyon, with its collegiate church and walkways (check whether tickets are needed). Canyoning only with authorised companies. Then the A-22 takes you to the Lleida area to sleep less than two hours from base and return the motorhome on day 6 between 9:00 and 12:00.

Where to sleep

The Benasque valley has several campsites, and some villages in the area have authorised motorhome areas. Demand is high in July, August and on bank holidays, so book ahead. For the nights near Lleida, Park4Night or Campercontact help you find areas and check for water and waste points. More ideas in our guide to where to sleep in a motorhome.

You may park wherever any vehicle may park, as long as you are not camping: no awning, chairs or levelling chocks, and no emptying of waste water. Wild camping is not permitted in the natural park, which has its own rules of use: do not plan to sleep in the mountain car parks, and follow the signs.

Where to sleep with a motorhome in Catalonia

Practical tips

• High-mountain weather: afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer. Set off early, come back early, check the forecast and always carry a warm layer and a waterproof.
• The Aneto is not a hike: the normal route crosses a glacier, ends with an exposed passage and requires crampons, an ice axe and high-mountain experience. It is only for experienced, well-equipped mountaineers, ideally with a qualified guide; everyone else can enjoy the view from Aiguallut.
• At 2.74 m high and 2.14 m wide, park outside the old centres of Roda, Alquézar and Benasque and walk in. In the Ventamillo gorge, drive slowly and check the state of the A-139 before setting off.
• The route covers about 750 km (around 60 more with Alquézar): with the 300 km a day included in Segimon Rental's 3 to 6-day rentals, 1,500 km over five days, you have plenty to spare.
• Variation: from Castejón de Sos, the N-260 crosses via Laspaúles to El Pont de Suert, a winding mountain road that links up with our Vall de Boí Romanesque route.

Frequently asked questions